“It’s all a question of taste versus texture,” he said. “In France and much of Europe, we’ve always prized beef with character, while the U.S., Australia, perhaps Japan and many other countries are obsessed with tenderness.” - Hugo Desnoyer, Paris Butcher.
RUBIA GALLEGA - the prized cattle from northwest spain is not even in a category of steak as we americans know it. it's another species of protein on the menu. u can't compare it to an A5 melt in your mouth wagyu. u can't compare it to peter lugers dry aged 30 day charred plate of butter glazed beef. u come to spain to enjoy something entirely different. the spaniards age their beef a minimum of 180 days and up to 300 days. the mature beef funk has cheese like aromas that intoxicates your nose the moment you step inside the restaurant. your mouth waters watching a model-esque spaniard smear your plate with beef fat and serving the dark meaty medium rare beef onto your plate. you're instructed to eat the fat and let it coat your mouth. then have some beef. and when the grease accidentally gets on your hand...sniff it first. then lick it off.
sobrassada and chorizo....OMG!!!
gin and tonic....palate cleanser....a lemon sherbert and gin...,the spanish just get it...perfect!
where the steaks grill...what im going to build for the backyard...
"i didnt work with beef before because most of the time beef isn't very interesting. it's just proteins pumped up with very little flavor...." Magnus Nilsson, chefs table "fifty years ago there was like one kind of cow and because of the way we farm in the western world the whole development has split the dual purpose breeds into two lines. one that produces just milk. there is a cow that stands there for 8-10 years consuming vast amounts of grain just producing milk. on the other hand you have beef cattle. which do nothing just stand there also eating vast amounts of grain to grow as quickly as possible to reach a really big size. they are fed to be come these living monsters of meat. it's enourmously effective. i think that was what triggered the idea of using the dairy cow in the restaurant because it just seemed stupid to do the way its done now. the first dairy cow that we bought it had a depth of flavor and things that i didnt find in ordinary beef. that was when it started to turn really interesting. the dairy cow that has mostly eaten grass during its life from a nice farm where they are allowed to pasture you will have much more flavor with much more texture and natural marbling."
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